Saturday 12 May 2012

Buses, Bumps and Buddists

(sometime late March) As we arrived in the quite mountain town of Mcloed Ganj , home of the Tibetan gov't in exile, just north of Dharamasala, I immediately noticed a drastic difference from the other Indian cities I had previously been to.  While people had told me this place was much calmer and quieter than normal Indian cities I found it almost to quiet, and we soon learned why.  Two days before we arrived, a young Tibetan had self immolated himself in Delhi in protest of the Chinese government's visit, bringing attention to what the people of Tibet are having to deal with in their country.  Around the town hung graphic and heart wrenching photos of the Tibetan engulfed in flames running through the streets.  Obviously a somber and mourning feeling hung around the town.  Later that day, all foreign tourists were invited to participate in a peace march through the city streets leading to the Dalai Lama's temple and residence.  We all wore signs showing our country, carried our flags and chanted together such phrases like, "We support Tibet, we support the Dalai Lama," and "Stop the violence in Tibet."  I felt almost weird at first, I don't know why, but as we marched through crowds began to surround us.  Tibetans bowed to us in appreciation, while Tibetan women had tear streaked faces watching.  The next day the body of the young man was brought back to Mcleod Ganj to be cremated.  People lined the streets as cars paraded through supporting Tibetan flags leading the ambulance that was carrying the body.  Behind the ambulance were dozens of motorcycles with the drivers and passengers yelling things in Tibetan that I couldn't quite catch. Watching this gave me a feeling I really can't describe. I was confused, angry and sad with this community all at the same time.  It's clearly an issue that requires people to be more aware and for other foreign countries to step in and try to help in some way.

But despite the rather gloomy news I walked into, I was starting a three day trek that day in the Himalayans with Thomas, Emile and a new Swedish friend Peter!  As I would learn on this trek, and various treks after, the Himalayan mountains are astonishingly gorgeous.  After our first long day of hiking we reached our first destination in a little mountain village where we set up camp for the night.  Surrounded by mountains, fresh air,  local shepherds and their goats it was one of the most peaceful places I've come across in all of India.  The morning we were greeted with a warming sunrise and some morning group yoga to get our stiff bodies going again.  The remainder of the trek consisted of more sweating, hiking, food and gorgeous views.  We were able to enjoy the scenery a few more times with treks to waterfalls surrounded by Tibetan prayer flags and an overnight right up to Triund with a local organization called Mountain Cleaners.  A group of about 12 or 15 people hiked up the mountain picking up the rubbish along the way to ensure that other hikers would be able to enjoy a clean path.  The garbage problem in India is absolutely attrotious so it was nice to help out a little bit.  And it didn't hurt that at the end of the hike, reaching the top and turning a corner we were treated to the most amazing panoramic view of the snow capped mountain peaks.  It literally felt like the mountains were smacking you in the face.  Our entire group just sat there for awhile just watching the mountains and taking in the most beautiful view of the mountains that I've ever seen in my life. Indescribable.

My entire purpose of coming to Dharamsala was to participate in Vipassana, a 10 day silent meditation course.  But after hearing that the Dalai Lama would be doing a public teaching in a near by town I decided to cancel my meditation course and attend the teachings instead.  I felt it was a bit of a once in a life time opportunity to see the Dalai Lama in his current residence area surrounded by Tibetan monks and nuns.  The day of, after ensuring we had our security passes (except for Gordon) and radio translators in hand, we took off in a bumpy shared jeep packed with monks and nuns.  I shared the front seat nussled underneath a monks arms.  It was a hot day, and of course given Indian's inability to form organized lines, it was sweaty mosh pit to get into the temple.  Slightly ironic given that we were going to see one of the most peaceful souls on earth.  But we made it in, seated on the floor outside the temple walls.  There was a rustle throughout the audience and everyone stood.  At the door of the temple a young monk came out, pushing people aside and behind him came His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama.  He is such a small man, but carried such a huge grin the entire time.  He bowed to the audience, gave a wave and headed back inside the temple to begin his teachings.  Listening to the teachings was incredible, but I was more humbled by actually seeing him in person and being in his presence.  I can't really describe it, it's just kind of one of those moments where I wasn't really sure if it was actually my life that I was living. I could never have imagined that moment.  He was funny to, telling jokes throughout his teachings and then chuckling to himself about his own jokes.  But his smile never faded, no matter what he was doing he always had a hint of a smile on his lips.

Somehow, I spent 2 weeks in Mcleod Ganj because I just loved the place so much and never felt like I got my complete fill of the place.  We spent time taking in the delicious food, sushi (sans seafood) and hanging out at night at the local hot spot, Carpe Diem where the roof top cushion area would fill up with easy going backpackers, Kingfishers (beer) and guitars.  I got the chance to step outside my comfort zone and go see an astrologer and get a Reiki healing.  Both were intense experiences and offered some great insight into my life.  It's a really weird feeling hearing things about yourself from a total stranger.  The Reiki healing was probably the most intense for me as this incredible man was able to tell me things about myself based on what he felt from my personal energy, rather than what he was being told from a computer screen based on my date and time of birth (which the astrologer did).  I would highly recommend Reiki healings to anyone who may be considering it and isn't sure about weather or not to give it a go.

Mcleod Ganj also introduced me to a number of AMAZING people who I shared my time with and made my experiences absolutely incredible.  Of course there was my traveling companion Anthony (told you I would mention you again).  I also have to give mentions to my enthusiastic Aussie Gordon, the fun loving and  gentle spirited Californian Hili, care free BC cheekas Cassie and Liz, my long time and now closer compadres Thomas and Emile and of course all the crowds of locals and travelers who I crossed paths with and shared experiences with.

It was time to leave, so Cassie, Anthony and I boarded some "comfortable" and long local buses to the calm town of Kasol, still surrounded by outrageously beautiful nature.  Kasol is also known as being a hot spot for an Israeli crowd to gather to when the weather starts to get to hot elsewhere.  And of course Israelis throw the best parties.  Our last day there starting at 10am and going until 10pm loud trance music rolled through the outdoor venue.  We didn't get there until later, but with faces painted in neon colours we joined the dance floor and danced the night away, or for as much trance music as we could handle.  Kasol was a quick stop over to see the beauty of the place and surrounding temples.  But then sadly it was time to say seeya later to Cassie. Anthony and I began our long journey of 24 hours of Indian buses to Srinagar Kasmir, or as we were told several times "Heaven on Earth", which turned out to be a fairly accurate description.


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